Bike safety checks

One great way to get killed is to ride a bike with brakes that don’t work or a loose headset. Bikes are just about the only vehicle you can buy which is designed to be users maintainable. Fixing bikes is straightforward and for many it’s part of the fun. But not everyone can tackle maintenance jobs – and if you’re one of these, make sure you get your bike checked over regularly. Another way your bike can let you down is if things get trapped in the wheel. Not just shopping bags, although everybody knows that only an idiot carries stuff on the handlebars of a bike – sometimes badly fitted mudguards can slip and jam the wheel, with potentially fatal consequences. So if something squeaks or rattles as you ride, check it out. Don’t wait until it gets worse, because worse might be deadly.

Checking Your Bike
Here are the things you should check before you ride your bike:

Every Ride

 * Sit on the bike. Pull each brake lever until it locks its wheel.  The levers should not be touching the handlebars before the brakes lock.  If you can’t lock the wheels without the levers touching the bars, don’t ride the bike.
 * Stand in front of the bike with one leg each side of the wheel; clamp the wheel between your legs and try to turn the handlebars. If the bars turn relative to the wheel then your headset is loose – don’t ride the bike.
 * The headset connects the handlebars to the front forks. Lock the front wheel with the brake, leaving the rear brake off.  Push the bike backwards and forwards gently.  If you feel a “clonk” through the handlebars your headset may need adjusting (loose brake bolts can give you a similar feeling).  If you suspect a loose brake bolt, don’t ride the bike.
 * If it’s dark, your lights must be fitted and working - it's the law, and it's common sense as well. Ideally you should have two lights at the front and two at the back, in case of a failure.  Make sure all lights and reflectors are clean, and check that they work before setting off.  If it’s dark and you don’t have a full working set of lights, don’t ride the bike.
 * Tyres: should be properly inflated. Squeeze the sidewalls (not the tread) between finger and thumb, the tyre should be firm. Soft tyres cause punctures and make you slower!  But don’t overinflate tyres, they can explode.  Check that there is plenty of tread, and watch out for cuts, thorns, and stones sticking into the tyre.

Regular Checks
When you sit on the bike you should be able to move the handlebars freely from left to right, there should be no tight spots. Brake pads: make sure they are free of dirt and oil, and there is plenty of pad left (scraping or squealing sounds when braking are a clue that there’s something wrong!) The brake blocks absolutely must not touch the tyres – if they do, they will wear a groove in the tyre and the tube will explode through it. If you accidentally drip oil on the pads while oiling your bike, either replace them or use brake cleaner to clean them. Don’t ride the bike if you think there is oil on the brake pads.

Wheels should “true”. If the tyres move noticeably from side to side as they turn, your wheels need truing. You can do this yourself but most people get a bike shop to do it. Wheels which are out of true make it hard to adjust the brakes. Wheel hubs: hold the wheel rim near the top of the forks, and move from side to side. If it moves, the hub bearings may need adjusting. Pedals get a lot of abuse. Check them by holding the outer edge of the pedal and moving up and down. Any play in the bearings needs to be remedied – new pedals or adjusting the bearings.

Cranks and bottom bracket also take your entire weight as you ride, so check them by holding one end of each crank and trying to pull them out away from the bike, then push them back. If there is movement, the bottom bracket may be worn. Your saddle should not twist on its post, and it should not be possible to move the front of the saddle up and down. Check your chain occasionally for wear using a 12” ruler. Measure from one rivet to another rivet twelve complete links away. The distance should be between 12” and 12 1/16” – if it’s more than 12 1/16” your chain needs replacing and if it’s more than 12 1/8” the sprocket(s) are probably shot as well. A worn chain is not an immediate problem but riding on a worn chain can lead it to snap, which can catapult you off the bike.

Maintenance
There are a few things you should do regularly (every week or two, more often if you ride every day):
 * Keep your chain oiled. A proper bike chain oil is recommended, or you can use chainsaw oil.
 * A few drops of oil on the pivots of any gear mechanisms is also a good idea. A light oil like 3-in-1 works well here.
 * A drop of light oil on the brake pivots
 * A drop of light oil on the derailleur pivots, if you have derailleur gears
 * Wipe down the wheel rims - grit makes them wear as you brake
 * Wash any mud off the frame, or wipe it down if it's not too dirty.

Don't use spray penetrating oils like WD-40 or Plus Gas on bikes. They are specifically designed to wash out grease – and your bearings require the grease to stay in place. It’s hard to spray any part of a bike without any risk of overspray hitting a hub, headset or bottom bracket. Best to avoid the risk.

Don't wash bikes with high-pressure hoses or pressure washers, as these, too, wash the grease out of the bearings.