Railway/Pinning track

I use Peco track pins, as they are finer than the alternatives so less obtrusive on the finished track. They are too long really, you have to trim them off under 6mm ply baseboard if you don't want to hurt your hands every time you work under the track. Pinning down is OK but there are some frustrations.

For a start, not all plywood is equal. Sometimes I find a sheet where pinning is a bugger, other times it's a doddle. Whatever, it is much easier to pin down to well-supported baseboard; the more bounce, the more likely the pin will bend.

I find it best to follow this process:
 * Drill a pilot hole in the sleeper (0.5mm or 0.6mm)
 * Push the pin gently into the hole with fine-nosed pliers
 * While holding the pin with the pliers, tap gently with a pin hammer through sleeper, underlay and to locate into the baseboard
 * Use the pliers to put the pin under tension and tap into the baseboard
 * Finally, when the pin is projecting by around 3mm, use a pin punch to push it the last few mm.

As far as getting the lengths right goes, I find there are two methods both of which work fine, and I use them in different circumstances Some people always measure and cut the track before laying, and that is a good idea if you are being really fussy about things. But cutting off in place with a razor saw or parting wheel in a power tool is easy and the result is good enough for me.
 * Trim-as-you-go is what I use for running lines and long sidings. You simply lay the track along the line and if it has curves you trim off the excess length as you finish laying each length.
 * Measure and cut' is necessary for tricky areas, around some pointwork for example, and for tight spaces.

Trimming and pinning the ends
Before you start: use a light hammer or pliers to tap the pinned-down track back against the previous length. As you lay a curved rail, it will wander around in the sleepers, often leaving a large gap. I close the gap and then open it again to a British Standard Tad by pressing a blunt Stanley knife into the gap and wiggling gently. If you close the gaps right up, the first hot day will see your track buckling all over the place.

Track pins
There are a number of different types of track pin on the market. I've used four: Peco, some unmarked ones from Hattons, Hornby and Gaugemaster.
 * Peco track pins are the smallest and therefore the least conspicuous. They are also bloody impossible to drive into plywood without bending, unless you are very very careful.
 * Gaugemaster are thicker than Peco and with larger, flatter heads. They can be concealed tolerably well with weathering and are dead easy to use.  They are long, like Peco, and will project below a 6mm plywood baseboard and need trimming. They are harder to trim than Peco, being thicker.
 * Hornby are hopeless. Too fat.
 * The Hattons ones are the best I've used: they are just the right length and are stiff enough to drive into plywood without excessive preparation.